Mandeville, Jamaica

In the context of being an intern in Jamaica, there are many levels of privilege associated with who I am, and who and what I represent. Even though my internship is part of fulfilling an academic requirement for my Masters degree in planning, having the opportunity to partake in the initiative itself I consider a privilege. Mind you, it was my qualifications and having had 2 jobs during the school year that got allowed me in the end to get here. But nonetheless, I was still presented with a wonderful opportunity and was able to choose to spend my summer abroad. Getting a work permit and Visa, while an incredibly annoying process, was simple. It never even occurred to me that I might NOT be accepted to enter the country, even if my documents had not been processed in time – how privileged to travel with such ease. This fortunate reality is not shared by many, and even the people I work with here. Traveling outside of the Caribbean for my colleagues and friends here requires a lengthy and costly Visa application process; receiving the necessary documents is by no means guaranteed.

It is even a privilege, I would venture to argue, to write these self-reflective blogs! Having the time to sit and reflect on my experience in Jamaica is a luxury!

I see it furthermore a privilege to be in a space where I may learn from an incredible bunch of people, my colleagues here at the Manchester Parish Development Committee in Jamaica – as I am sure my previous blogs attest to. I try to make it a conscious effort to not take my position as an intern and my organization’s welcome and patience with me for granted. I hope I have been successful in this respect.

Hello all;
ok, I am sure I am breaking some copy-right or mp3 pirating rules. But, I just had to share this tune with you.

I would say that I have been listening to it at least 15 times a day. Just listen to it! I mean, it's the kind of tune that makes you never want to leave the island.....oh, how very bourgeois yuppy, neo-colonial, generalizing, and whatever-else-you-are-thinking of me to say. But what the heck: it's Friday, I am tired, and the sun is shining!
I will be dancing to this song very soon when the artist, Tarrus Riley, will be performing as part of the world's BEST Reggae Festival, Reggae Sumfest in Montego Bay.

Culture shock? Honestly, I have not experienced any, yet. Maybe I will be blogging in a couple of weeks taking that statement back. It’s just that most of the things that are ‘shocking’ to me here were actually anticipated. Having had a workshop by York International, then a three-day workshop on Intercultural Effectiveness (hosted by the Centre for Intercultural Learning) where I also spent the morning with a Jamaica Resource person, then another one-day workshop with my co-hosts the Canadian Urban Institute, and having TA’ed 3 courses on Caribbean history and culture….I felt pretty prepared. Now, I am not saying that there aren’t things that are ‘different’ here, sometimes leading me to scratch my head and wonder: ok, what in the world was that! This usually happens while walking to work or going shopping at the market and involves things like “psst”-ing and “girl, I like your look”. But, then I conceptualize and contextualize it as cultural difference, a learning experience and move on.

I have also travelled enough to know that it is always the ‘reverse’ culture shock that hits me more than culture shock proper. And, although I have plenty of experience with it, I never seem prepared enough. Once, after having travelled through West Africa primarily solo, it took me an entire year to allow myself to acknowledge that I was going through reverse culture shock. I had returned the day school started for the semester. So, I was able to keep myself so busy that I didn’t even consider it. But then it crept up on. Perhaps it was because school had ended for the summer, and I had more time for myself. I hit me hard though, and seemed to come out of nowhere! I will never forget it: it was the first nice day of the year. I put on my flip-flops and decided to go for a long walk. As the warm breeze hit my face, all of a sudden I was so incredibly overcome with powerful and physically debilitating emotions. I had no choice but to take a seat in the middle of the sidewalk. I had suppressed my feelings for so long that I then started having nightmares about my travel, which took place an entire year prior. After several months of attempting to cope on my own, dreaming about the worst case what-ifs and how tricky situations could have ended up terribly, I sought the advice of a trusted professor of mine. He is a very experienced traveller and became my reverse culture shock confidents.

In anticipation of reverse culture shock impacting me more significantly again than culture shock proper post-Jamaica, I have begun setting up a mini-support system consisting of friends and colleagues. All are experienced travellers and know me rather well. Most importantly though, I feel extremely comfortable describing to them a version of Evelyn at her most vulnerable.

Regarding the environment in Mandeville, or Manchester in general? Let’s just say they’re working on it.

When arriving at the house I’d be staying for the duration of the internship, I was impressed that my toilet featured a dual-flush system and that every light bulb was of the energy efficient kind. Later in the day I asked our caretaker where the recycling bins were. I felt pretty naïve when she informed me that there was no recycling system, whatsoever.

In Toronto, I am an avid recycler and composter – it’s an integral part of my personal and ideological politik. I pride myself that my partner and I only produce a grocery bag of garbage per month. So, it has been rather painful for me to combine all types of waste and biodegradables into plastic bags. And I feel so guilty when I realize how much garbage I create, in a country that is not my home. It’s also pretty incredible to see how quickly the garbage bags stack up in front of our neighbours’ houses, particularly since there is no regular collection. Since arriving four weeks ago, our garbage has only been picked up once. Needless to say, when opening the garbage container I usually make the acquaintance of a rat. This might explain why people here tend to burn their garbage. Doing this is, of course, extremely harmful to the environment and also to one’s health, as garbage turns into poison when burnt.

Some other insights: While it also happens in Toronto, I cringe when going to the grocery store here and the clerk insists on double, or even triple-bagging. I have started bringing my own canvas bag though, and most clerks have been pretty receptive of it. When walking to work, or taking public transit, I often see people throwing garbage out of the window. Shrubs do make great garbage cans, I guess. But, I do not think that this is unique to Jamaica, or other transitioning/developing countries. Toronto’s Better-way TTC subway and buses are a garbage dumps in their own right.

As I have mentioned in my previous blog, the organization I work with (Manchester Parish Development Committee) has just handed over the Local Sustainable Development Plan (LSDP) to the Parish Council. The LSDP proposes numerous initiatives to relieve the pressure not only on landfills, but also on the environment. These ideas range from creating recycling programs and facilities to developing more energy efficient landfills in Manchester to encouraging household composting. But, it will take time for these initiatives to be implemented, or even enforced.
I had been asked to write a piece on household waste with respect to the environment for MPDC’s upcoming newsletter. The feature I wrote is entitled ‘How to reduce your household garbage? Pre-cycle!’. The article contextualizes the importance of reducing household waste by pointing to the overflowing landfills, and the loss of valuable land in the parish to landfills. I wrote that in order preserve precious land for agriculture, protected areas, park space, or housing, consumers must become smarter shoppers. Numerous ideas of how consumers can reduce their household garbage and contribute positively to protecting the environment were outlined. But, the premise was basically: shop smartly and think before you by, hence Pre-cycle.

Hello to you all;
last Thursday was a historic day for the parish of Manchester and the island of Jamaica. Truly, I am so humbled and honoured to have been a part of it! The organization I work with, Manchester Parish Development Committee, has handed over the Local Sustainable Development Plan - 2030 and Beyond to the Manchester Parish Council for consideration.

The LSDP is a genuinely unique and innovative document. As Jamaica’s first locally prepared, fully participatory, Local Agenda 21-based development plan, it provides a highly comprehensive vision for the future of the parish while also putting forward concrete Advisory Policies and Action statements. The LSDP is a thorough plan that prioritizes a balanced approach between the economy, the environment, and society. But the true strength of the plan surely lies in the participatory nature of the 3-year process that formed it as well as the immense network of partnerships that were forged. Partner agencies and organizations include: Canadian International Development Agency; Canadian Urban Institute; Department of Local Government; Manchester Parish Council; Manchester Parish Development Committee Staff; National Environment and Planning Agency; National Housing Trust; National Land Agency; Office of the Prime Minister; Planning Institute of Jamaica; Parish Development Committee Board of Directors; Social Development Commission; and Town and Country Planning Authority.
Once the LSDP was officially handed over to Her Worship the Mayor Councillor Brenda Ramsay and the Manchester Parish Council, celebrations continued over lunch. Present there were the staff and planners of the MPDC who have worked tirelessly on creating the plan for numerous years. Also, individuals representing partner organizations were on-hand to celebrate the LSDP. Representatives from the National Environment and Planning Agency (NEPA), the National Housing Trust (NHT) and the Parish Council spoke on their involvement in the process and the great accomplishment that the LSDP represents, not only for Manchester but for the entire nation. NEPA representative Khalice Bradshaw spoke specifically to how the LSDP has informed the writing of the soon-to-be-released Development Order. Mr. Sean Rowe (Director of Planning, Parish Council) acknowledged in particular the incredible work of MPDC’s Phil Rodriques and Ryan Wallace. As young planners, they have surpassed all expectations and will surely become leaders in the field. Mr. Rowe urged them to share their knowledge and skills with other parishes, assisting them in the initiation and creation of locally specific sustainable development plans. Future generations of Jamaica will certainly benefit greatly from their contributions. Now that the Parish Council has received the LSDP, they will pass it on to NEPA and the Town and Country Planning Authority for review. Once approved, it is then handed back to the Parish Council who commence the exciting yet challenging work of plan implementation.

But, to truly demonstrate the significance of this event and the document to you, allow me to quote the Chairperson of the MPDC, John "Jackie" Minott's address to the Parish Council last week: "The many challenges that had to be overcome, the many partnerships that had to be forged and the constant knocking on doors that has brought us to this accomplishment has scored yet another first for the parish. This is testament to the fact that Manchester is a parish of leaders, not followers; after all it was born out of a rebellion. On reflecting on the writing of the plan, I can recall the team at the Manchester Parish Development Committee refusing on many occasions to be daunted when they were told it could not be done; they refused to take ’No’ for an answer, they worked sometimes without pay, worked long hours and weekends without overtime pay; and they did it because they believed in what they were trying to accomplish and had a passion for what they were doing. They had something to prove to Jamaica, and that is just what they did."

Wow, just reading this gives me the chills. Being part of the celebrations and having had the opportunity to contribute a tinsy-winsy bit to the plan......well, let's just say I now know what kind of a planner I want to become. The folks here are truly inspiring, yet surprisingly humble about their accomplishments. I thank them often for allowing me to be part of MPDC and learn from them. Here's a pic of Phil and Ryan, proudly displaying a by-product of the LSDP.

I have been in Jamaica for three weeks already, and it’s been an exciting little while since my previous blog. I have been to Negril on the Western coast of the island several times already.

Negril and its famed Seven Mile Beach used to be, in the ‘60s, a favoured hippie hotspot. While the beach is still quite lovely, I have been told by several people that it used to be so much more magnificent. As Jamaica ‘thrived’ as a tourist destination, the precedence was to develop sufficient and attractive infrastructure. Environmental considerations were of course not prioritized, resulting in the degradation of the sea and land. And even more shocking was to hear from locals that resorts have been reported to pipe sewage into the ocean, without any repercussions. Hearing this, I with pride applied my biodegradable sunscreen to enjoy the pretty much crystal-clear waters and soak up the sun. While trying to get a nice tan (read: I got incredibly burnt, freakishly strong sunrays!), dudes locally known as ‘Rent A Dread’ would offer me anything from Sea-do rides, ganja, fruit and ‘Jamaican Steel’ (no explanation necessary on the last one, right?). A less pleasant encounter involved a sting-ray that swam with me too close for comfort.

Even though it took plenty of persuading, coaxing and negotiating with our dearly loved and protective hosts and friends, Alissa and I took local transport to Negril. It always amazes me how efficient, albeit incredible/seemingly unorganized, public transportation is in non-Western countries. No schedules, no specific departure times, no route maps, and no maximum passenger capacity. But it’s so cheap and works marvellously! And, something exciting always seems to happen during a trip. One event that will become part of my regularly re-told travel stories took place during a return trip from Negril, back up into the hills of the cool(er) Mandeville. The radio was blasting a best-of medley of Celine Dion songs. The best part, though, were that the songs transitioned from one to the next via a Jamaican Dancehall-esque groove! At the time, I wished that I had brought a tape recorder. Canada meets Jamaica, mon! So, me being all excited, I started singing to the songs quite - loudly I guess. Loud enough that a few girls who were seated behind me in the minibus could hear me. One of them, super ecstatically, tapped me on my shoulder and said: Oh my god, you know Celine Dion? Haha. I was so amazed and flabbergasted by the question that I just said: yes! The girl and I started singing, practically screaming, and acting out Celine Dion songs together. It was a blast.

I have also, again to the amazement of co-workers, begun shopping at the local market and generally spending more time in the ‘wild west’ of Mandeville. I love it there. It’s hot and humid, so many people, music blasting, jerk chicken simmering, men screaming out the name of the town their taxi is leaving for, and plenty of cat-calling. The latter, while of course awfully annoying at times, has become quite a source of amusement to me. While walking, I keep thinking: what will I be called next? When I first arrived in this country, most calls were the usual ‘Hey, Whitey’, followed by the customary ‘Pssssst’. If Alissa who is of Korean descent and I walked together, I’d usually be called ‘Miss Chin’. Guilty by association, I guess. Many times it has happened now that people will come up to us and ask if we speak Chinese, or whether we were from China. Definitely a first for me! But, the most amazing thing happened last Saturday. Within a matter of one hour, I was called Whitey, Miss Chin, and get this: Brownie! Haha, I guess I have been tanning a bit too much. Who knew that my skin colour and facial features could be so fluid!

Wha’ guan!? I have finally arrived in Mandeville, Jamaica. All is well here, yet it’s very hot and humid…translation: plenty of mosquitoes!

Even though I have not yet commenced my placement, I have already met several of my colleagues. Truly, they are the kindest people: so welcoming, extremely accommodating and entirely hospitable. Everyt’ing irie?

Saturday night, Sean Rowe (planner at the Manchester Parish Council) and his friend Kirk invited Alissa, my fellow intern, and I to join them for supper. They took us to the infamous Little Ochie, a seafood restaurant on the beach where tables are located in large, docked fishing boats scattered on the beach. Upon arrival, we had to select our fish, part of the catch of the day, from a cooler; it was then prepared to our liking. I have never, ever tasted fish this good! Talk about local!!

Little Ochie’s is located about one hour South of Mandeville. So, on our way there I got to experience what many previous visitors to Jamaica had warned me about: Jamaican driving. I have had my share of crazy and rather dangerous driving incidents - I’ll never forget my rides through the Ecuadorian Andes via a winding road without a guard rail. But the Jamaican’s add more fun to the experience by driving on the left side of the narrowest of roads!

I have now also experienced the meaning of Soon come, and now know that this Patois saying does not mean what it literally implies. The house that Alissa and I are renting was not completely arranged before we arrived. Missing were a fridge, a stove, and several other items that would make our stay much more, uhm, comfortable. Even though our landlord assured us that the items would be here soon, and the driver was on his way, only two days later have most of the items arrived. A particularly memorable yet frustrating incident involved the delivery of a coach.

While my stay in Jamaica has as of yet been short and my experiences few, I have surely gained some insight into aspects of Mandevillian culture. Importantly though, I have also come to realize that being in this culturally foreign place provides opportunities for reflections about the deep and inherent elements of my own culture. It is as if my interactions with Mandevillians, people whose culture seems so different to my own, allow to more clearly detect, locate and describe elements beyond my surface culture, elements so inherent, hidden and deep.

Perhaps this is then the ultimate gift of traveling to foreign places: if one is completely open to the experience, lessons about the new place as well as the intricacies of one’s own culture will present themselves; perhaps they are even begging to be discovered. Culture, I have come to believe, is more than just the food I eat, the music I prefer, the dress that is most customary; or the food they eat, etc. Culture is not only what I perceive its elements to be; it becomes alive only in interactions with other people! So, as I am sitting in front of a fan blasting air at full speed, sipping on delicious Blue Mountain coffee, I ask myself: what’s culture got to do with it? Everyt’ing, mon!! I just hope that I have the courage to seize the opportunity to be self-reflective and dig deep.

Welcome to my first travel blog!

I will be traveling to Mandeville (Jamaica) in at the beginning of May. I will be working as an intern with the Manchester municipality's planning department; I am very much looking forward to what will certainly be a rewarding and challenging experience.

So much still to do before I go!!!!! But now I can check one item off the list: create a blog! This blog will serve the function of keeping in touch with friends and family. It will also allow my university (York University) to 'keep and eye on me'! (haha, sorry Larissa and Natasha!!!). It will also serve as the platform for various assignments and personal reflections.